My right shoulder has ropes running through to my neck. My right wrist at times gets painful and creaky. I feel tension in the muscle under my right thumb. It's not exclusively, but I think largely, due to my evil iPhone.
Evil and yet I love it. I love finding a coffee shop with an outdoor patio during a break between teaching. I love finding weird, quirky places when I pull up into town. I love that I can keep my inbox neat and manageable by frequently deleting the junk messages or sending a quick reply to something important.
I frequently check my email and Facebook. I get work-related messages on Facebook with some frequency and that's where I do most work promotions. Honestly, I don't mind it all but I do feel it in my body.
I'd been feeling like I wanted an internet cleanse really just to watch what happened. I wanted to see if my body did unwind a bit and what my mind felt like without the frequent connection and stimulus.
My work is pretty email reliant and I have certain obligations so it took a little coordinating but I did it-- cleared two full and surrounding partial days where I had fully communicated that I would be unavailable. Last Monday I taught three classes, squared away the last of my communications, made sure everyone had what they needed from me, jumped in the car, and headed north.
I printed out directions, which I hadn't done in awhile. I wanted my phone OFF. I also printed out swimming holes that might be fun to visit or other weird things I'd heard about.
I thought there would be a lot on my mind that I would want to remember-- tasks to attend to-- but nope. There really wasn't any resistance in falling into this parallel track.
Kevin and I returned to our favorite little cottage on a sweet creek in the Catskills. We walked into town and ate food at cafes. We walked back and kept the door open to the creek to feel the air and hear the rushing water. Incense stayed lit to keep bugs from our door. I opened up The Signature of all Things and didn't close it until I read the last word a day later. Kevin went through a few of his favorite works as well.
We swam in the creek. We laid on boulders and sun bathed.
We also did a halfday meditation retreat with Amma Sri Karunamayi but that's a separate subject for another day!
As I waded through the water I tried to feel what was different. The main thing I felt was that I had more of myself. My energy was all going into me, my relationship, the moment. None of my energy was siphoned away into another town, a different task, or a different moment. I felt more cohesive, coordinated, and potent. That felt really good, unexpected, and worthwhile.
I wasn't sure what I'd find-- that I was hopelessly addicted to social media and needed a constant hit? Nope. I like it. I like being connected but I was fine without it too. I wasn't sure if I'd feel isolated. No. I just felt like my energy got to be concentrated and directed more mindfully.
I waded through the creek and laughed as I thought, "if a tree falls in the forest and no one hears it..." If I'm in the forest and no one hears me, did I happen? I think that's often the underlying motivation for constant updates and contacts. "I am here, existing, living, and trying to leave a record." Why? So maybe we can defeat the one undefeatable, seemingly chaotic, utterly consistent experience of our existence?
So, if no one knows what I'm experiencing, if no one knows me, other than me, is that enough? Is the present moment, this experience enough? Because ultimately, whether it's broadcasted or utterly private, this experience is all there is. This present moment, this feeling and engagement with it, this is it. As far as I can tell. No big meaning. No big culmination. No big quest. Just this. So if I'm the only one in my present, as all of us are both the only one and with everyone in this big is-ness, is it enough? Can it be enough? If it's fleeting? Ultimately unshareable? Ultimately unbearably private and completely universal?
Is that all there is?
Yup. Let's keep dancing.
I had Leonard Cohen wafting out of the open french doors of my cottage. I had an open book on a sun drenched boulder. Moss climbed on the boulder reminding us both that all is built and all breaks down.
It's all completely enough.
Thursday, June 30, 2016
Thursday, June 9, 2016
A process, not an instant
Last weekend I met my friend Julie for lunch. I became one of those vegetarians rolling my eyes at delicious bites of kale and sweet potato while Julie recounted her recent visit to Michigan. She'd read an article on the process of death-- that our thoughts of death being sudden and finite don't bear out.
And I got really excited.
Bear with me, but I love talking and thinking about old age and death. I don't mean to be morbid and in fact I don't think that I am. I love being intentional, aware, and finding light in areas of our life that are charged.
We're all thinking about death, or no-more-ness, all the time. Sometimes it drives us and scares us. I want to think about it to be more comfortable with it. I do it every time I practice yoga and lay down in savasana.
Another friend of mine had recently witnessed the death of someone dear to her. She recounted something similar-- that the body went through a process of shutting down but consciousness flickered forward and backward. The linear notion that we sometimes have of born, alive, dead, as being fixed firm places didn't bear out in what she saw.
Years ago I knew a pregnant woman who reached her due date and panicked that she hadn't automatically gone into labor. Other women who had delivered kids said, "don't worry, due dates are more suggestive than firm" but this first-time mother was scared and her stress was having an impact on her health and the health of her child. She went to the hospital, was induced and had a c-section to bear her child.
I remembered that and remembered how it shed light on this growing notion that our bodies aren't robotic, they don't function one way. In yoga I study anatomy and find that it's a beautiful map but the mechanics of two bodies rarely match. What is often more effective is understanding anatomy and biomechanics and then observing the intricacies of those systems in motion as they interact with environment and shifting circumstances.
According to my due date, I was two weeks late. My Mom was 39, unexpectedly pregnant with her fourth child, and I was breach. On my due date I turned. She said that it felt like an earthquake. When I was born I was 8 lbs 10 oz so I must have been nearing that size two weeks earlier. Two weeks late, a mother of "advanced maternal age" delivered me naturally. My progress into this world and pace didn't fit neatly into prescriptions around gestation and birth. I'm grateful that my Mom had already born three children so she wasn't so scared. She had a bigger faith in letting the process unfold and letting me emerge as I was ready to.
When a person is born is hotly debated in conversations around abortion. I heard a similar conversation come up recently in the yoga community about when the atman, or soul, enters the vehicle of the body. I heard one yoga teacher say it enters through the sperm in the moment of insemination. Ram Dass gave a lecture in the 70s saying that the soul might enter the body at any time-- at conception, during gestation, or after the baby has been alive for some time.
The cycles of birth, life, and death are more enmeshed than distinct.
There are parts of me that are dead. Some of my skin is dead and it sloughs off. I've been burned and watched new skin be created and form a shield across my body.
The me that was a baby is no more. It died. A child was born. That child died. A teenager was born. That teenager died. An adult was born. As an adult I've been a myriad of people living a myriad of lives. I grieved when some of those lives ended. Others I left gratefully.
And yet, all of those incarnations is still present in who I am in this moment.
I've known a multitude of lives and deaths. Their boundaries were not always so finite.
The other night I gathered with some friends to discuss chapters of Ram Dass' Paths to God. The book is filled with beautiful suggestions, ruminations, and lectures on the Bhagavad Gita. He spends a good deal of time selling the reader on reincarnation because if you don't believe in reincarnation then some of the related concepts of karma and dharma simply won't make sense.
While we discussed evolving souls and the teachings of the Gita, I thought back to Helen Nearings' book Loving and Leaving the Good Life. She recounted watching her lifelong partner, Scott, near 100 years old. He started to find that he could no longer tote fire wood. That was an indicator to him that the usefulness of this body, this sheath, had run its course. He put his affairs in order. He made sure Helen was OK. They had a birthday dinner for Scott on his 100th birthday. He celebrated with his friends. Afterwards, he stopped eating. It took three weeks for the vitality to run out of his body. He left intentionally. Helen watched a man who entered the world with purpose, lived with vigor, release this life consciously.
Isn't that what we all strive for? Consciousness where previously there was not. A witnessing of the rising and shedding of lives, moments, and identities. A full investment in the moment and a willingness to release willingly when the moment has passed. Letting the transition not fill us with fear, but with awe.
And I got really excited.
Bear with me, but I love talking and thinking about old age and death. I don't mean to be morbid and in fact I don't think that I am. I love being intentional, aware, and finding light in areas of our life that are charged.
We're all thinking about death, or no-more-ness, all the time. Sometimes it drives us and scares us. I want to think about it to be more comfortable with it. I do it every time I practice yoga and lay down in savasana.
Another friend of mine had recently witnessed the death of someone dear to her. She recounted something similar-- that the body went through a process of shutting down but consciousness flickered forward and backward. The linear notion that we sometimes have of born, alive, dead, as being fixed firm places didn't bear out in what she saw.
Years ago I knew a pregnant woman who reached her due date and panicked that she hadn't automatically gone into labor. Other women who had delivered kids said, "don't worry, due dates are more suggestive than firm" but this first-time mother was scared and her stress was having an impact on her health and the health of her child. She went to the hospital, was induced and had a c-section to bear her child.
I remembered that and remembered how it shed light on this growing notion that our bodies aren't robotic, they don't function one way. In yoga I study anatomy and find that it's a beautiful map but the mechanics of two bodies rarely match. What is often more effective is understanding anatomy and biomechanics and then observing the intricacies of those systems in motion as they interact with environment and shifting circumstances.
According to my due date, I was two weeks late. My Mom was 39, unexpectedly pregnant with her fourth child, and I was breach. On my due date I turned. She said that it felt like an earthquake. When I was born I was 8 lbs 10 oz so I must have been nearing that size two weeks earlier. Two weeks late, a mother of "advanced maternal age" delivered me naturally. My progress into this world and pace didn't fit neatly into prescriptions around gestation and birth. I'm grateful that my Mom had already born three children so she wasn't so scared. She had a bigger faith in letting the process unfold and letting me emerge as I was ready to.
When a person is born is hotly debated in conversations around abortion. I heard a similar conversation come up recently in the yoga community about when the atman, or soul, enters the vehicle of the body. I heard one yoga teacher say it enters through the sperm in the moment of insemination. Ram Dass gave a lecture in the 70s saying that the soul might enter the body at any time-- at conception, during gestation, or after the baby has been alive for some time.
The cycles of birth, life, and death are more enmeshed than distinct.
There are parts of me that are dead. Some of my skin is dead and it sloughs off. I've been burned and watched new skin be created and form a shield across my body.
The me that was a baby is no more. It died. A child was born. That child died. A teenager was born. That teenager died. An adult was born. As an adult I've been a myriad of people living a myriad of lives. I grieved when some of those lives ended. Others I left gratefully.
And yet, all of those incarnations is still present in who I am in this moment.
I've known a multitude of lives and deaths. Their boundaries were not always so finite.
The other night I gathered with some friends to discuss chapters of Ram Dass' Paths to God. The book is filled with beautiful suggestions, ruminations, and lectures on the Bhagavad Gita. He spends a good deal of time selling the reader on reincarnation because if you don't believe in reincarnation then some of the related concepts of karma and dharma simply won't make sense.
While we discussed evolving souls and the teachings of the Gita, I thought back to Helen Nearings' book Loving and Leaving the Good Life. She recounted watching her lifelong partner, Scott, near 100 years old. He started to find that he could no longer tote fire wood. That was an indicator to him that the usefulness of this body, this sheath, had run its course. He put his affairs in order. He made sure Helen was OK. They had a birthday dinner for Scott on his 100th birthday. He celebrated with his friends. Afterwards, he stopped eating. It took three weeks for the vitality to run out of his body. He left intentionally. Helen watched a man who entered the world with purpose, lived with vigor, release this life consciously.
Isn't that what we all strive for? Consciousness where previously there was not. A witnessing of the rising and shedding of lives, moments, and identities. A full investment in the moment and a willingness to release willingly when the moment has passed. Letting the transition not fill us with fear, but with awe.
Wednesday, May 18, 2016
One night in Panama
A few years ago, we set out on an adventure.
Kevin and I were weaving through Panama. We had no firm plans, just many ideas. We'd planted ourselves in the San Blas islands for a few sun-kissed days. In my opinion, the most worthwhile destinations take some doing to get there, so we were boats and shuttles away from internet and phones and infrastructure. We were lounging in hammocks and eating fresh coconut. But it was time to go.
Early in the morning we boarded a small speed boat to cut through the steel waters and low clouds. We passed the Kuna villages hanging off the edges of the islands. We wove through mangroves and canal channels to get back to the beach of mainland Panama. A jeep met us. Sleepy, groggy, loaded in for hours of weaving through mountain switchbacks. Five swerving hours later we were deposited back in Panama City. Mission in mind, we hailed a taxi to the bus depot.
With tickets purchased we boarded an eight hour bus to David. We squeezed ourselves into the back of the bus, where a teenage boy eagerly boarded next to us. I wedged my head against the window to rest while Kevin learned about this boy's apprenticeship at the bus mechanic and his appreciation for graffitti art.
It was dark when we arrived in the northwestern city of David. We had one leg left, a one hour bus ride into the mountains to Boquete. Wearily, we were directed towards a diablo rojo, a refurbished school bus with a big "Boquete" emblazoned over the front windows. Friday night in David meant that teenage couples were on the prowl for parties and secluded spots. The bus filled up with teenagers, arms wrapped around each other. The Phillies paraphernalia by the driver swayed as the bus lurched up the mountain. We were in Chooch territory.
Little by little the bus let out couples as they wandered down dimly lit roads to parties and friends houses. We were left with a leering drunk who stumbled towards us, past us, and then away again. The windows were open and the air soft on this tropical night moving up the Panamanian mountains. We were heavy and cumbersome-- all our luggage was buried between our knees, under the seat, and on our laps. Exhaustion started to weigh on me. We had started our day early, on remote island shores. We had only eaten a bit at various rest stops.
One of those travel moments set in: why am I doing this? Why am I here? I'm tired. I don't know what's going on. This was a mistake. A headache started pulling grey through my forehead. I leaned back and listened to the music the driver had playing. It was tropical and swaying. It lilted with the breeze. Just as suddenly as the weight of my weariness landed, it lifted. It was one of those travel moments: elation that I was here. I get to experience this. The music felt lighter and full of hope. The music held that moment: my exhaustion, Kevin's arm protectively on my shoulder, a wandering drunk, young kids in love, and soft, soft breeze. Of being somewhere unbelievable and going somewhere unknown.
We asked the driver the name of the artist as we disembarked. He growled, "bachata!" We made a note of this magical Panamanian music.
Throughout our trip we would occasionally ask about purchasing Bachata music. It wasn't until a few weeks later that we were back in Panama City and found bootleg CDs being sold. A young sales rep took us through the stacks to the Bachata section. We were sure we'd struck some type of rare gold! We picked up the artist we had heard that night: Aventura. We read the liner notes. Bachata is a type of music originating in the Dominican Republic. OK, we nodded, makes sense. The band Aventura lives in the Bronx.
We felt really bright.
A week later I was back in the US waiting tables at a diner. I waited for my food to come up and heard the music the Mexican chefs were playing in the kitchen. It was Aventura. It was Bachata.
I had heard the song a thousand times before that night in Panama.
But now Bachata is always that night in Panama. And a reminder to hear it all.
Kevin and I were weaving through Panama. We had no firm plans, just many ideas. We'd planted ourselves in the San Blas islands for a few sun-kissed days. In my opinion, the most worthwhile destinations take some doing to get there, so we were boats and shuttles away from internet and phones and infrastructure. We were lounging in hammocks and eating fresh coconut. But it was time to go.
Early in the morning we boarded a small speed boat to cut through the steel waters and low clouds. We passed the Kuna villages hanging off the edges of the islands. We wove through mangroves and canal channels to get back to the beach of mainland Panama. A jeep met us. Sleepy, groggy, loaded in for hours of weaving through mountain switchbacks. Five swerving hours later we were deposited back in Panama City. Mission in mind, we hailed a taxi to the bus depot.
With tickets purchased we boarded an eight hour bus to David. We squeezed ourselves into the back of the bus, where a teenage boy eagerly boarded next to us. I wedged my head against the window to rest while Kevin learned about this boy's apprenticeship at the bus mechanic and his appreciation for graffitti art.
It was dark when we arrived in the northwestern city of David. We had one leg left, a one hour bus ride into the mountains to Boquete. Wearily, we were directed towards a diablo rojo, a refurbished school bus with a big "Boquete" emblazoned over the front windows. Friday night in David meant that teenage couples were on the prowl for parties and secluded spots. The bus filled up with teenagers, arms wrapped around each other. The Phillies paraphernalia by the driver swayed as the bus lurched up the mountain. We were in Chooch territory.
Little by little the bus let out couples as they wandered down dimly lit roads to parties and friends houses. We were left with a leering drunk who stumbled towards us, past us, and then away again. The windows were open and the air soft on this tropical night moving up the Panamanian mountains. We were heavy and cumbersome-- all our luggage was buried between our knees, under the seat, and on our laps. Exhaustion started to weigh on me. We had started our day early, on remote island shores. We had only eaten a bit at various rest stops.
One of those travel moments set in: why am I doing this? Why am I here? I'm tired. I don't know what's going on. This was a mistake. A headache started pulling grey through my forehead. I leaned back and listened to the music the driver had playing. It was tropical and swaying. It lilted with the breeze. Just as suddenly as the weight of my weariness landed, it lifted. It was one of those travel moments: elation that I was here. I get to experience this. The music felt lighter and full of hope. The music held that moment: my exhaustion, Kevin's arm protectively on my shoulder, a wandering drunk, young kids in love, and soft, soft breeze. Of being somewhere unbelievable and going somewhere unknown.
We asked the driver the name of the artist as we disembarked. He growled, "bachata!" We made a note of this magical Panamanian music.
Throughout our trip we would occasionally ask about purchasing Bachata music. It wasn't until a few weeks later that we were back in Panama City and found bootleg CDs being sold. A young sales rep took us through the stacks to the Bachata section. We were sure we'd struck some type of rare gold! We picked up the artist we had heard that night: Aventura. We read the liner notes. Bachata is a type of music originating in the Dominican Republic. OK, we nodded, makes sense. The band Aventura lives in the Bronx.
We felt really bright.
A week later I was back in the US waiting tables at a diner. I waited for my food to come up and heard the music the Mexican chefs were playing in the kitchen. It was Aventura. It was Bachata.
I had heard the song a thousand times before that night in Panama.
But now Bachata is always that night in Panama. And a reminder to hear it all.
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
Reframe
Working to enjoy
not maintain, cajole, manipulate, change
my body
Working to find sanctuary in
not stress, maintenance, chore
my home
Working to revel in
not weed, mow, neaten, tame, stomp on
the land
Tuesday, May 10, 2016
Replenish
I have been very quiet on here for awhile. I've felt a strong urge to be more still and more internal. For once, I'm listening.
I've been reading more than I've been writing.
I've been quiet more than active.
I've slept more.
I've moved less.
I've thought too much.
I've been feeling how much healing and growth happens outside of our own impetus. Healing and growth happens in its own time and in its own way.
I've felt some profound healing. I'm still feeling it. It's very subtle and very cool.
I'm feeling more in touch with who I am outside of the stories of "what happened to me." (What I remember: unapologetic happiness, sun-kissed cockiness.)
I've been dreaming of whales and zebras and walk-a-bouts in Europe. (And realizing that feels connected to knowing a me before/behind a me.)
I've been thinking about this adage that gets tossed around in yoga: "If you're physically healthy, practice Ashtanga. If you're injured or ill, practice Iyengar." And I've been thinking that if that's true (and I think it's true) that the same applies to yogic spiritual and philosophical studies. "If you've taken time to work on emotional self-awareness, emotional literacy, and healing, then these studies might be appropriate. If you haven't, if there are unnamed fears driving many of your actions, or a cloudy lack of awareness, spend time understanding your own emotional make-up before delving into spirit." I'm starting to think that we need to teach each other emotional health as much as we teach physical health. In Master Patanjali's 8 limbed path to the state of yoga, clarifying the yamas, or relationships to those we perceive of as other to us, is the first course of action.
I've been thinking a lot about stars and retrogrades. I don't understand astrology. I've started hearing certain things-- Vedic astrology, herbalism-- that perk up my ears. Not that I'm a straight up believer that star alignment is predictive nor on the nose advice. More so the Jungian notion of reaching into our subconscious through symbols. Stars and archetypes are powerful symbols. Symbols are powerful placeholders for beliefs and feelings. Spending time with these symbols and ideas feels good to me. There are also some amazing writers working in astrology (check out chani nicholas) and their words have heft.
I'm feeling made of stardust. I'm feeling astral, Aquarian and Gemini. I'm feeling elemental and metal and earth. I'm feeling Vedic and earthy and full of fire.
I'm leaving space for both and. People are both awful and. Astral. Stars are both stars and. Reminders. Of the bigger picture.
I've been working a lot and working on new, bigger projects. I'm simultaneously stimulated and scared. So I stay the course and let the energy work through. There's no need for the fear to define my efforts.
I've been thinking about hauntings as genetic trauma. I've been reading researchers looking into how trauma passes through generations like a funny shaped nose or hair color. I read case studies on insomniacs remembering the death-by-freezing of an unknown uncle. Healing the insomnia offered a healing for the larger family.
Without the scientific studies, these instances would be characterized as hauntings. I've heard that by honoring ancestors and healing ancestral wounds, we free ancestors. And it helps me understand ghosts. And makes me believe in both. And.
That I'm not meant to be afraid. I am meant to pay attention. I am meant to feel power as energy. To listen.
I've been reading more than I've been writing.
I've been quiet more than active.
I've slept more.
I've moved less.
I've thought too much.
I've been feeling how much healing and growth happens outside of our own impetus. Healing and growth happens in its own time and in its own way.
I've felt some profound healing. I'm still feeling it. It's very subtle and very cool.
I'm feeling more in touch with who I am outside of the stories of "what happened to me." (What I remember: unapologetic happiness, sun-kissed cockiness.)
I've been dreaming of whales and zebras and walk-a-bouts in Europe. (And realizing that feels connected to knowing a me before/behind a me.)
I've been thinking about this adage that gets tossed around in yoga: "If you're physically healthy, practice Ashtanga. If you're injured or ill, practice Iyengar." And I've been thinking that if that's true (and I think it's true) that the same applies to yogic spiritual and philosophical studies. "If you've taken time to work on emotional self-awareness, emotional literacy, and healing, then these studies might be appropriate. If you haven't, if there are unnamed fears driving many of your actions, or a cloudy lack of awareness, spend time understanding your own emotional make-up before delving into spirit." I'm starting to think that we need to teach each other emotional health as much as we teach physical health. In Master Patanjali's 8 limbed path to the state of yoga, clarifying the yamas, or relationships to those we perceive of as other to us, is the first course of action.
I've been thinking a lot about stars and retrogrades. I don't understand astrology. I've started hearing certain things-- Vedic astrology, herbalism-- that perk up my ears. Not that I'm a straight up believer that star alignment is predictive nor on the nose advice. More so the Jungian notion of reaching into our subconscious through symbols. Stars and archetypes are powerful symbols. Symbols are powerful placeholders for beliefs and feelings. Spending time with these symbols and ideas feels good to me. There are also some amazing writers working in astrology (check out chani nicholas) and their words have heft.
I'm feeling made of stardust. I'm feeling astral, Aquarian and Gemini. I'm feeling elemental and metal and earth. I'm feeling Vedic and earthy and full of fire.
I'm leaving space for both and. People are both awful and. Astral. Stars are both stars and. Reminders. Of the bigger picture.
I've been working a lot and working on new, bigger projects. I'm simultaneously stimulated and scared. So I stay the course and let the energy work through. There's no need for the fear to define my efforts.
I've been thinking about hauntings as genetic trauma. I've been reading researchers looking into how trauma passes through generations like a funny shaped nose or hair color. I read case studies on insomniacs remembering the death-by-freezing of an unknown uncle. Healing the insomnia offered a healing for the larger family.
Without the scientific studies, these instances would be characterized as hauntings. I've heard that by honoring ancestors and healing ancestral wounds, we free ancestors. And it helps me understand ghosts. And makes me believe in both. And.
That I'm not meant to be afraid. I am meant to pay attention. I am meant to feel power as energy. To listen.
Monday, April 11, 2016
The temples of Angkor War
After sunset at Angkor Wat, we began our following day at sunrise. The big thing is to get to Angkor Wat and sit around the pools facing the main temple. People scramble all over the banks. Vendors come by and will sell you full breakfasts, served at your spot, with instant coffee. We opted to forego picnic breakfast and get a sit down breakfast at one of the few restaurants later on. Instead, in the grass, by the water, with the early morning hum we waited for the sun. As it rises in the sky it casts the reflection of the temples into the pools.
Many say it's equally, if not more, remarkable to go to other nearby temples at this time that are less crowded. I'd believe it, but I have to say, there's no experience that's not worthwhile. Plus, the crowds are sort of fun. You almost feel like you're waiting for a pre-dawn Bowie show.
When the sky was light we headed to Blue Pumpkin, one of the few nearby restaurants. Blue Pumpkin feels like a park restaurant. The prices are way high for Cambodia but not so high in general. We were able to get much better coffee and good meals as we fueled up for the day ahead.
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On the road to Angkor Thom. This bridge is surrounded by statues pulling the naga serpents. |
Some opt to see the temples in group tours. This can be a great way to get history and context. There are many options here but some involve riding in an air conditioned bus between the temples. Some of the temples are pretty far from one another so this isn't a bad idea!
Smaller tours can be arranged chauffeured in cars. What we opted for, and many do, is a chauffeured tour in a tuk tuk. This meant that our tuk tuk took us on a route that managed the crowds so we weren't always going to the most popular temples at once but we also didn't miss out. When we finished at one temple site we got back in our tuk tuk and moved on. The tuk tuks are open air so it's a lovely way to feel the breeze and take in the sites. The drivers also keep cool water for you. On long days they take you to a restaurant somewhere on the grounds. In exchange for bringing you to the restaurant, they receive a free meal from the restaurant. Weirdly, some tourists feel scammed by this. Sure, you could ask your tuk tuk driver to take you to some further afield restaurant that won't give them a meal but do you want to be that person? Think long and hard about poverty rates in Cambodia before getting high and mighty. Your tuk tuk driver knows what's up. Let it happen! These guys work hard. Tip them!
The last option for visiting the temples is to ride a bike. The land is very flat but the roads are not so well labelled. Also, you're weaving in and out of aggressive tuk tuks, motorbikes, cars, and vans. I would like to ride a bike with more time but I can see it intimidating some!
For small stretches, you'll see elephants off to the side with the invitation to tourists to ride them. DO NOT DO IT. These elephants are treated very badly. This is a bad deal for all involved. Don't support this industry by engaging. There are some great elephant sanctuaries where animals are given the space and freedom to live their lives. Support those instead!
Angkor Thom leads to Bayoun, one of the most striking temples. Huge faces peer in every direction. Surrounding the temple proper there are several other worship areas with Buddhist monks. You'll find this throughout the temples of Angkor Wat. If you make an offering to the fire the monk will give you blessings. Be sure to watch locals to understand appropriate behavior. Usually, it's expected that you shed your shoes when approaching an icon.
All of the temples also have a bit of a carnival feeling as they are surrounded by a few shop stalls set up under tarps. Families sell tee-shirts and coconuts while the kids run around under foot. Every now and then there's a park bathroom. If you ask your guide or driver, they'll direct you appropriately.
The Royal Palace includes this pool where kings used to swim and now local kids sometimes do. This is also where we did our "we're in a very public place" test. Kevin put some coins in his pockets that he wouldn't mind losing. Sure enough, he'd been cleaned out. It's a good test to remind you that in crowds folks know what they're doing. We kept passports locked up in the safe at the hotel and only a little bit of money stashed pretty well on us! No major losses.
Chao Say Tevoda is devoted to Shiva. It was beautiful to move between spaces intended for Hindu and Buddhist devotion. Same same.
Takeo had many images of Nandi, Shiva's bull. This also gave some perspective on how high up you can climb in these temples.
Again, we shot for perspective. The weathered steps are very narrow and can be slippery as they're so smooth. Keen sandals were great as they provide ventilation, some shelter from the sun, and good traction. Going up the steps wasn't as bad-- climbing up never is, right? Coming down felt fairly treacherous. We took it nice and slow.
Some are truly ambitious and want to see as many temples as possible. We were interested in moving a bit more slowly so we called it a day and returned to the temples the following morning. Hence, the week long pass! At Pre Rup temples were devoted to both Shiva and Vishnu.
Shiva's lion, Narasimha.
As we loaded back in the tuk tuk, our driver warned us that heading to Banteay Srei was a long drive. We settled in and wound through the Cambodian country-side for about 45 minutes. We passed houses on stilts, long, low fields, museums to land mines, orphanages for survivors, local projects in arts and folk history, town centers, and open space. When we arrived to Banteay Srei proper we saw that the temples have been set up as their own individual park with organic land management on the periphery of the property. These pigs were chowing down in the green rice paddies.
The dusty red temples at Banteay Srei were some of my favorite. So beautiful and under such hot sun.
Another formidable tuk tuk ride took us to East Mebon, where we encountered these friendly guys watching out from every corner of the temple site.
Neak Pean is one of the more unique temple sites. While many temples have moats, there is a huge body of water surrounding Neak Pean. The water is filled with lilies, lotuses, and darting fish. You walk down a long pier as land mine survivors play beautiful Cambodian folk music.
The temple proper is an island within more water. The site is dedicated to Lokesvara, the Buddha of compassion.
Ta prohm is sort of a crowd favorite. These are the temples shown in Lara Croft. The Angkor Wat temples have always been known by local worshippers, but like most good things, Europeans "discovered" them after the fact. When French explorers encountered the temples most looked like this-- half absorbed back into the landscape. Most temples have been carefully extricated and staff work to preserve them. Ta prohm has been purposefully left in the found state so visitors get a sense of the interaction between the temples and land. It's dramatic and beautiful.
The savannah surrounding the temples reminded me of Zambia-- arid, shrubby, and beautiful. The land and the temples feel magical. A friend asked me if my photos had a special filter or if it was "magic Cambodian light." Some photos are filtered to better show the details but honestly, the filters try to capture what was honestly there-- magic Cambodia.
Friday, April 8, 2016
Just Be: Jivamukti Retreat to Belize Feb 18-25, 2017
Just Be: Jivamukti Yogawood Retreat to Belize
Ambergris Caye is Belize’s largest island, floating in the turquoise waters of the Caribbean. Join Jivamukti Yoga Teacher, Maiga Milbourne, assisted by Kevin Price, for a week of barefoot peace. We’ll be staying at Ak’bol Eco Resort, Belize’s oldest yoga retreat designed to be very low impact on this precious environment. Practice yoga twice daily on a pier to the sound of lapping waves. Dine on locally-sourced, healthy, and vegan meals three times a day on the beach. Between yoga and meditation practices experience as little or as much as you’re called towards. The more adventurous might snorkel in the second largest Barrier Reef in the world, only a quarter mile away, or visit the neighboring fishing village of San Pedro. Or maybe the sand and the sun is enough and you let yourself just be. Enroll here.
February 18-25, 2017
Ak’bol Eco Resort
Ambergris Caye, Belize
Tuition includes chosen accommodations, three meals a day (except for one evening free), and all yoga practices. All prices are person. If electing for a shared rate the student is responsible for finding their own roommate. Maiga is happy to make suggestions but we cannot offer a shared rate if the room is not shared.
Deposit: To hold your space pay a $500 deposit. This will be deducted from your total tuition. All tuition is due no later than Nov 1, 2016.
Not included: Flights to Belize, transport to Ak’bol (details below), alcoholic beverages, one night dinner on your own, tips (we suggest $50 per person for the week), and optional excursions.
Cancellation Policy: We realize that things happen. Until Oct 1, 2016 if you have to cancel we will refund your payment except $100 to cover administrative fees. After Oct 1, 2016 there are no refunds.
SOLD OUT!
Seafront Cabanas (3) shared rate $1,775, private rate $2,375 if paid in full by August 1, 2016. After August 1, the rates are increased by $150 per person.
Seafront Cabanas (3) shared rate $1,775, private rate $2,375 if paid in full by August 1, 2016. After August 1, the rates are increased by $150 per person.
Each of these thatched roof cabanas has a sea view, a queen-sized bed as well as a loft with two twin beds. Windows are plantation shuttered, the private shower is open air, offering a truly unique and authentic experience. Daily housekeeping will change towels every other day to conserve water and energy.
Garden View Cabanas (4) shared rate $1,675, private rate $2,225 if paid in full by August 1, 2016. After August 1, the rates are increased by $150 per person.
Each of these thatched roof cabanas has a sea view, a queen-sized bed as well as a loft with two twin beds. Windows are plantation shuttered, the private shower is open air, offering a truly unique and authentic experience. Daily housekeeping will change towels every other day to conserve water and energy.
Village Rooms shared rate $1,300, private rate $1,425 if paid in full by August 1, 2016. After August 1, the rates are increased by $150 per person.
Have you ever wanted to go to summer camp in the Tropics? Now is your chance. Simple island rooms with twin beds for those sharing or a queen beds for couples as well as communal spaces overlooking the lagoon. There are two shared bathrooms with plenty of showers, toilets, and sinks for all, as well as island details like mahogany sinks and conch shell faucets. This is sweet simplicity on the lagoon. Have fun with it!
Note on preserving the local environment
Ak’bol is an eco-conscious space. Please bring a reusable water bottle and enjoy the complimentary safe drinking water. Please conserve!
Ak’bol staff will change bedding and towels every other day and appreciates guests drying out their towels in between. This is to cut down on water and energy usage.
Islands have sensitive septic systems. Whenever possible, please put used toilet paper in provided garbage cans. These are ways of island living to soften our impact.
A healthy ecosystem has bugs. The gentle ocean breezes help keep a lot of critters away from Ak’bol but there will be bugs! This is the reality of a healthy environment.
Your yoga teacher
Passionate about healthy bodies, relationships, and communities. Maiga Milbourne is an E-RYT vinyasa yoga teacher, and she loves nothing more than offering amazing hands-on assists in yoga practice. As of March 2015 she is also an accredited Jivamukti teacher, after completing her training at Radhanath Swami’s EcoVillage outside of Mumbai, India, under the tutelage of Sharon Gannon, David Life, Jules Febre, Ruth Laurer-Manenti, and Yogeswari. She teaches yoga, officiates ceremonies, and makes people's travel dreams come true. Learn more at maigamilbourne.com.
After years of dedicated meditation practice, attendance on many yoga and silent retreats, and lots of study with senior yoga teachers in the Jivamukti lineage, Kevin Price, embarked on his own yoga teacher training. In April 2016 he completed 200 hours of rigorous yoga study at Yogawood under the direction of Beth Filla and Maiga Milbourne. In addition to his own practice and his practice of sharing these methodologies, Kevin runs a sustainable landscaping business. He implements environmentally-friendly measures on his own property, such as multiple composting systems and greywater. Kevin is also a musician, playing guitar, offering vocals, and many song compositions for the band, All the Forgotten. More than anything, Kevin loves a good adventure. In Belize, he’s your go-to guy when you want to get into it!
Sample Itinerary subject to change
Saturday February 18
Arrivals throughout the day - check in is 12 noon
6:30 pm Welcome Dinner and Orientation
Sunday February 19-Friday February 24
7-9 am light breakfast buffet served at the beach bar
9:30-11 am Jivamukti Yoga
12-1 pm lunch on the private palapa
Optional activities can be organized by Ak’bol, such as scuba diving, snorkeling, sailing, windsurfing, kite boarding, kayaking, visiting Mayan ruins, cave tubing, zip-lining, getting body work from a local practitioner, swim in the pool etc. There are also daily guided snorkel trips from 1-3:30 pm.
5-6 pm Yin or gentle yoga
6-6:30 pm seaside Meditation practice
6:30 pm dinner on the private palapa
8 pm some nights optional satsang including chanting or conversation
Saturday February 25
7-9 am farewell breakfast
Check out 12 noon
Getting there and Away: Fly into Belize City or airport code BZE. If flying from the US East Coast you may want to search flights out of Newark (EWR) or JFK for cheaper and more direct flights. We suggest purchasing travel insurance with international flights.
Ambergris Caye is an island off of Belize’s mainland. You are responsible for getting from the Belize City Airport to Ambergris Caye. To get to Ambergris Caye you have the following options:
Tropic Air: This is the quickest, simplest way to get to Ambergris Caye. This is a small flight (affectionately known as “puddle jumpers”) that get you to the town of San Pedro in 15-20 minutes. These flights run 40 minutes after the hour with the last flight daily departing at 5:40 pm. You can book this flight through www.tropicair.com or directly through Ak’bol by emailing yogawithkirsten@gmail.com and paying upon arrival. Upon arrival in San Pedro you will take a taxi to Ak’bol for about $17.
Water Taxi: From the Belize Airport you need to get a taxi to the water taxi port in Belize City, which will be roughly 25 minutes and $25. Catch a water taxi to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, which will take about an hour and a half and cost $15. At the San Pedro port you can catch a second water taxi directly to Ak’bol or catch a land taxi, which is easier. The water taxis to Ak’Bol run periodically for about $5 or you can charter one for about $20. You can visit www.sanpedrowatertaxi.com or https://belizewatertaxi.com for more information.
WHAT TO BRING
A current passport.
Two color photo copies of your passport.
Many in Belize accept US Dollars though Belizean currency is the Belize Dollar. There are ATMs in San Pedro-- remind your bank that you will be in Belize! You can also run a tab at Ak’bol and pay by credit card when checking out.
Your own reusable water bottle.
Medications with their prescription.
Your yoga mat if you’re attached-- there are mats to use at Ak’bol if you’d rather not travel with your own mat.
Small towels for sweaty practice.
Clothing for twice daily yoga practice. There are places in San Pedro to get your clothes laundered, if you’d like. You’ll want to allot two days to receive your clean clothes.
Clothes for day time adventures-- if you plan to wear anything other than your swim suit! Ambergris Caye is VERY CASUAL!
Some layers for cooler evenings, like a pair of yoga pants, sweat shirt, and long sleeve shirt.
Flip flops.
If you plan to be adventurous, a good sports sandal like keens or chacos. You may want sneakers if you plan to go to the Mayan ruins.
Swim suits.
Beach towels.
Beach gear-- sunscreen, bug spray, sunglasses, hat, etc.
Books and music.
There are no hairdryers at Ak’bol but remember they try to conserve energy and that we think you look beautiful as you are.
Reading lamp, flashlight or headlamp. For some reason, flashlights and headlamps are amazingly helpful when traveling.
If you have snorkel gear, bring it! If not, you can use Ak’bol’s.
$40 for the exit fee to leave Belize. You pay at the airport with either US cash or credit card.
Communicating with family back home
If you have a good international cell phone plan, great! Know signals are often dodge-y in remote places like tropical islands. Consider turning off your cellular data once you fly out to Belize. Once you have wifi, you can use the connection to Facetime with friends and family.
In the event of an emergency, your family can reach you by calling Ak’bol: 011 (501) 226.2073
FAQs
Ak’bol can exchange USD into Belizean dollars. You likely won’t need much money.
There is free internet in the on-site wisdom garden but it is not always consistent. There are a few internet cafes in San Pedro.
No need for adapters as outlets are the same as in the US.
You can read the CDC’s recommendations for traveling to Belize here: http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/belize. Please consult your doctor to take the appropriate precautions for your health.
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