Chichicastenango

I realized that in accounting for my time in Guatemala I made a huge omission: the market at Chichicastenango.  I had read that this is one of the most exciting markets in all of Central America, but wasn't sure if I'd have time to get there on a market day.  When Kevin & I decided on an extended stay in San Marcos, on Lake Atitlan, we learned that Chichi was an easy day trip.  The next market day was the day after my birthday.  Sweet!

We loaded into a van on a Sunday morning to wind through the mountains northwest towards Chichi.

The market is as wild as promised.  Not only is it vibrant and fun, but the shopping is fantastic!  Well, it's fantastic if, like me, you adore the rich, bright, hand-sewn tapestries famously made in this region of Guatemala.  I first sat in a cafe for a hearty plate of huevos rancheros and strong, dark coffee.  After I was properly fortified, it was on.  I had birthday money in my pocket, knew my budget, & was in bargain-mode. Thankfully, there is an ATM in Chichi!

Vendors expect you to haggle.  You always want to be fair, but firm.  Kevin & I established before-hand that we would walk away before committing to any purchase.  That way we could clear the air and ensure every decision was considered.  I became so addicted to bargaining it became hard to turn off!  The following day we got into a taxi & I tried to negotiate the fare!

There are some aggressive sales people in Chichi.  There are also children asking for money.  Poverty is always hard to bear.  I try to be human, generous, and safety-conscious when I'm in a new community encountering requests for money or resources.  I have no hard and fast answers on how to handle these situations.  I usually just weigh safety.  Obviously, if someone is asking for money, they are concerned for their own welfare.  If it seems safe to take out money and share with them, I will.  If, by taking out money I open myself up to an onslaught of requests-- or demands-- and potentially endanger myself, I usually acknowledge the human making the request but keep moving.  This never feels good because it's not an answer to poverty, or access, or any of the issues that arise in this encounter.  However, it's the best I can come up with at this time.  I also investigate organizations doing good work in the local community to see if they have guidelines on these situations or if I can support the group's work.

If it gets overwhelming, I suggest ducking into one of the second story restaurants.  Look up-- you'll see them!  From there, you can watch the crowds of the market with a bit of a buffer.  A calming cup of coffee can steady you to return to the teeming maze.

 The rooster-est rooster.

Hard to find, tucked behind the kiosk stalls, is this lovely mural depicting a Mayan understanding of the dawn of Creation.

If you have the opportunity, I highly reccomend spending a day at Chichi.  Smell the incense and roasting food, haggle with vendors, purchase beautiful handicrafts, sip a coffee as you watch it all unfold.