Ho Chi Minh City/ Saigon

What to call it?  Vietnamese call it Saigon.  Ho Chi Minh City is where you arrive from an international flight. It's the capital of the country, though all the political power is in Hanoi, in the north.

Infamous Continental Hotel, home to Graham Greene and many other war correspondents.

Ho Chi Minh City is hot and fast.  It's fun.  You can walk out of your room at any time of night and find food cooking, music playing, and a friend to join for a game of dominoes.  I think I'm realizing I prefer being outside of most cities.  I was content with a day and a half here.  And, as far as big Vietnamese cities go, I prefer the dark mystery of Hanoi.

Crossing the street in Vietnam is one of the best exercises in meditation.  There are motorbikes everywhere.  Vietnamese people seem to understand the rhythm of movement, but there are no signals to the outsider.  You can't cross at a light or anything that simple!  You have to almost go limp, relax, and move one step at a time as traffic parts.  If you remain calm, pay attention to the Vietnamese crossing-- they're the best guides, you'll watch the motorbikes part around you.  It feels zen.  If it's not terrifying.

Running through the hot humid streets to various museums and attractions is tiring.  We found a rooftop bar to take in the Mekong.  And of course, my favorite, a refreshing glass of Nuc Dy, lime juice, and the inimitable Vietnamese iced coffee!

So let's talk about food.  As I've written before, it's pretty easy to be vegetarian in Vietnam.  As a westerner, it's easier to tell wait staff that you're Buddhist.  Many parts of the world take the word "vegetarian" quite literally, and you might find yourself with exclusively raw vegetables.  Vietnamese understand that Buddhists simply don't eat animal products.  Also, all Vietnamese eat vegetarian at least once a month in recognition for Buddhist belief.

We went to Sen/Lotus Cafe, the best vegetarian restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City.  It doesn't look like anything from the outside.  We walked to the second floor and waited while families seated on floor cushions dined at communal tables.  No one paid attention to us.  Finally, a couple got up and gestured to their area of a table.  It was still full of dishes and glasses.  We eagerly sat down (it smelled great!) and happily watched while people made space for us and the wait staff bussed.  No one spoke any English.  No matter.  Happily, part of the menu was in English!

Our friend, Au, introduced Kevin to avocado milkshakes.  He's a believer.  I still can't get on board with the whole sweet avocado thing, though it is quite common in most of Asia.  I did discover that I love iced lotus tea.  When we arrived in Ho Chi Minh City, our hostal host treated us to iced lotus tea and small candies made from sesame seeds and lemon seeds.  Delicious!  I told you the Vietnamese waste nothing.

While in Halong Bay, we met travelers who suggested we connect with Sinhbalo tours to bike the Mekong Delta.  We paid our fare to travel south.