Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Galapagan Galloping: Isla Isabella

During February 2013, Kevin & I passed 10 encanted days in the Galapagos.  As I wrote in previous posts, we made our base camp on Isla Santa Cruz, the main island.  Many travelers also spend some time on Isla Isabella.  In fact, many travelers favored Isabella because on this island you can find hostals and hotels directly on white sand beaches.  It is a draw!  If we ever find our way back to the Galapagos, I would spend a few nights on Isabella, Floreana, & San Cristobal.

This visit, we wanted to see as much as possible while still having some flexibility & relaxation.  We felt like we accomplished that well taking days of rest on Santa Cruz's beaches in between tours to other islands.  Our first tour was to lauded Isabella.  It's quite a ways- the speed boat took three hours to reach shore!  Note to travelers-- if you have the choice, opt to sit outside of the cabin.  On the way to Isabella we were inside the cabin.  Between the motion and the diesel fumes, I became truly seasick.

But then we arrived.


A short ways from town proper you come to a lava lagoon that is a popular hang-out with some island flamingoes.  Galapagan islands all have their own unique landscape and animal inhabitants.  This site was truly distinct from Santa Cruz, or any of the other islands.


Wild life abounds.


On Isabella we caught our first glimpse of the famous Galapagan turtles!  We saw them wild on several other islands, but this first sight was at a breeding center.  The population was nearly decimated by pirates who would store & eat turtle meat, introduced animals like goats, & environmental devastation.  This breeding center is working to escalate and stabilize the turtle population.


There are several distinct breeds on the archipelago.  This specific type of turtle has the shell that inspired the name: "Galapago."  "Galapago" is an old Spanish word meaning "saddle."  Spanish pirates thought this shell looked a lot like saddles back home.  The name stuck,eventually labeling the entire archipelago.


Baby turtles!  And teenage turtles!  And mutant turtles!  And ninja turtles!


Our first sighting of blue-footed boobies.


Better boobies.

Best boobies.


The day we visited was overcast-- and stormy at sea when we journeyed between the islands.  The grey sky really increased our ocean visibility.  The waters surrounding Isabella are filled with these small sharks.  I was told they're not fans of eating humans.  Thankfully.


The lava rock on this particular island was so hot-- constantly internally heated!  The lava rock surrounding this little tunnel of ocean water was a particularly warm and sheltered spot for sharks to sleep.  A whole family is snoozing at the ocean floor.


And around the cove opening, a marine turtle.


More slumbering sharks.


They're kinda cute!


Baby shark slumber party!


On shore, holy iguanas!  February is mating season for turtles, iguanas, sea lions, and several species of birds.  These iguanas are largely females digging to bury their eggs.  Frigates circled overhead to snack on easily accessible eggs.  Many beaches were off limits to humans to protect the fetal iguanas.


An iguana summit.  This particular island off of Isabella proper felt a bit post-apocalyptic.  Sharks, iguanas, crabs, and hot lava rock.  A sweetly closed system that I am so grateful to have witnessed.

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