Galapagos Galloping: Floreana

To me, the reading list is essential for any adventure.  I want to do some research before arriving in a destination.  Upon arrival, I try to deepen my experience by reading works by local authors or books set in my destination.

I read Kurt Vonnegut's Galapagos as I flew out to the islands.  Next, I picked up Margaret Wittmer's Floreana.  Wittmer emigrated from Germany to Floreana with her husband and step-son just a few years before World War II.  At the time of her arrival, the only other inhabitants were a vegetarian German dentist and his wife.  Over the years, a baroness of international acclaim settled on the island before a mysterious disappearance, and the Wittmer's were targeted by the Ecuadorian government for being potential Nazi sympathizers.  Floreana was a surprisingly compelling read, so I was really excited to visit the land that had harbored such intriguing humans and their stories!

But first, we must be greeted by the wild life.

There are maybe one or two hotels and perhaps one or two restaurants.  This is a one road kinda town.  It gets better as you venture towards the interior.

Had to visit with the sea lion and iguana first.

As we ascended to the shaded highlands (and a seriously distinct climate from the shoreline) we were greeted by mating turtles in the wild.  They were busy.  We moved on and gave them privacy.

This guy was unattached.

The Wittmers settled in the highlands where you're likely to stumble across some magical flowers dangling from the canopy.  There was a rare and valued fresh water source.  (So valued that pirates had constructed defense structures around the water!).  In this region, farmers can cultivate European crops.  Closer to the shore, tropical crops are grown.

The Wittmer's home.  Their children still live in the region.  Their daughter operates the farm and their son has a very large tourist operation.

I guess largely uninhabited islands inspire some creativity.  Heinz Wittmer carved this face near the fresh water source.  Archeologists later thought it was proof that Incans had reached the Galapagos.  Most scholars believe that they did reach the Galapagos, but they didn't carve that.

Floreana is one of the most beautiful islands.

Black beach is near Post Office Bay.  A lone barrel stood out in the cove for years while pirates & sailors dropped off messages.  If the message was addressed where the ship was headed, or at least in a similar direction, they took it.  The mail didn't move quickly, but remarkably, most mail did reach it's intended recipient!

Back at shore, the gangs still here!

And fiercely guarded by their iguana security detail.