Kuna Yala

Kuna Yala, or the San Blas, is paradise.  No equivocation.  This archipelago is sun-splashed, largely sheltered from wild currents, & pristine.  The Kuna Yala is also sovereign territory within Panama, governed by the Kuna people.  Traveling here supports the economy of this self-sufficient Indigenous territory.

As with most places worth getting to, the travel isn't easy.  You can fly from Panama City, but it can get a little costly.  In 2010, a hostal in Panama City, Luna's Castle, offered jeep rides through the mountain jungles.  It took about five hours door to door & was harrowing at moments.  Of course, this was several years ago. This is one of those mythical roads that is under perpetual construction always promising big things.  I am skeptical, but the road could have improved.

However, difficult roads yield magical moments.  You do get these type of views:

Once in Carti you either meet a representative from your hotel or go to an island where you can camp or find a hammock.  We had made reservations at Kuanidup & were met with a ride.  First you travel by boat up river.

Emerging to the ocean, & sights like this:

Taking a jeep ride to the Kuna Yala is not terribly expensive.  If you camp or stay in a hostel on one of the more accessible islands the whole experience can cost next to nothing.  Alternately, you can fly & stay at a high end resort.  Some of the resorts are ecologically sustainable & good ventures to support.  We chose middle ground-- Kuanidup.  Kuanidup is owned by Kuna people, low-impact, but more affordable.

We kept pinching ourselves.  This place is gorgeous.  Here's the trade-off with traveling to remote, pristine locales: you might sleep in a thatch hut on sand floors.  There might be little agriculture on the islands (more on the mainland interior, towards the Darien, a subject for another post), which means that meals are largely caught-- lobster, crab, fish-- & paired with coconut rice, eggs, & any available fruit.  There's absolutely nothing to do.  Nothing.  Bring books.  Maybe play hours of horse.

Kevin & I are great with all of the above.  Kevin lives for crab so he was absolutely thrilled with the diet.  I was pretty tired of coconut rice, eggs, & pineapple, but it does get the job done.  I could deal with perpetually sandy feet & the related sandy bed.  Cold showers from rain water were fine as well-- it is hot out!

Once we surrender to the sweet peace we read.  Read, eat, sleep with the darkness, rise with the light.  Run around.  Hug each other gleefully.  Read.

I've sent honeymooners on sailboats throughout the islands.  If you stay on Kuanidup or another hotel you generally make your own fun.  In the afternoons we often had the option to boat to another island.  Sometimes we nixed the plan for more swimming, reading, & being happy.

At night our hosts made bonfires.  We pretty much went to bed.  Listened to the waves splashing feet away from our bed.

The only hard part was leaving.

I love supporting the Kuna community & sending people here.  If you want help managing the logistics email maiga@yogawood.com.  Hot dreams for cold days...